PROTECTING TEXTILE HERITAGE: GOVERNING INDONESIA’S LOCAL CULTURAL VALUE CHAIN AMID GLOBAL MARKET DYNAMICS

Abstrak

Since UNESCO recognized batik as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the value of traditional Indonesian textiles has increasingly gained attention in the global market. However, Indonesia’s traditional textile industry continues to face structural and market-driven challenges. The influx of low-priced imported products, weak protection of intellectual property rights, and the rise of fast-fashion trends have undermined the competitiveness of local textiles. Therefore, this study analyzes how local governance of the cultural value chain can strengthen Indonesian batik’s position in responding to international market pressures. Constructivist theory is employed to explain the formation and protection of cultural values, supported by a descriptive qualitative approach drawing on interviews, literature reviews, and secondary data from official sources. The results show that strengthening the local cultural value chain is the most effective strategy to address the vulnerability of local textiles. This effort requires decisive policy interventions, including import controls, the implementation of the Batik SNI, and the strengthening of IPR and KIK legislation. Optimizing the use of Geographical Indications (GI) also serves as a key instrument for differentiating batik products in the global market. Beyond regulatory reform, collaboration among the government, artisans, MSMEs, e-commerce platforms, and cultural communities is vital for improving production quality, expanding distribution networks, and enhancing batik branding at the international level. Overall, this research highlights the role of localized value chains as a strategic approach to protect cultural heritage within global market dynamics.